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Post by vmrod on Apr 2, 2009 8:39:47 GMT -3
For 2 days, I did nothing but work on my XR3 and drink every can of Rockstar I could find in the city. Not only did I totally complete my XR3 chassis, but the body and interior as well! Rather than go all electric, I decided to listen to what others wanted to do, so I went all out! I installed a hydraulic engine (with turbo), small pneumatic engine (for low-end torque), 11" electric motor, hydrogen fuel cell, and a small diesel V12. So far, I have only driven 112 miles, but it is calculated to go somewhere upwards of 278 MPG! In fact, it actually generates a small amount of power, just sitting in the garage with all of the motors turned off! .... April Fool! hehe Actually, I finally got my air bags (springs) in yesterday. It took a long time, cuz rather than order Firestone brand, I ordered 'Slam Specialties'. The size I ordered was too big, so I returned them and got the next size smaller. These new ones (RE-6) are the exact bolt pattern as the Firestone bags, but much cheaper. According to reviews, much better too! I was able to slip the front bags in yesterday, but still need to do some minor tweaking on a bolt hole or 2. Even without air or a plug, they hold the chassis up at a good height.
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Post by vmrod on Apr 6, 2009 13:40:29 GMT -3
It is taking a little longer to complete the TA than I anticipated. However, once complete, it will REALLY be complete. I managed to fab the re-enforcing brackets for the carrier tubes, which will get installed once I finishing MIG welding the carrier tubes (likely during this week). The TA side skins are on, and have a little bit more spot welding to do all around, but not much. The time consumer will be cutting the holes out in the side skins. Looking forward to getting that over with. A big delay will be coming soon! We bought a new car (mostly new), so now there are 2 cars in the garage that must stay there. My XR3 will not be able to grow much larger in the garage, perhaps a completed and attached trailing arm, but that's about it. So, into a work-shed/garage it will go. Guess what? Not built yet. Looks like I have another project to do, before I can continue my regular project! I hate this stuff, but it will be nice to have a dedicated, covered place for it. (especially during fiberglass time!) I MIGHT be able to continue my work through to the Rear-Assembly, especially if I did not mount either it or the TA to the FA.
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Post by vmrod on Apr 13, 2009 9:11:35 GMT -3
The plans showed 2 re-enforcing brackets on the upper bushing carriers only. I failed to see when, or if these get wrapped around the tube. I made 4 of these brackets and wrapped them totally around the tube. They extend about 2" onto the frame on each side. This was welded all the way around, and ground nice and smooth. It is VERY solid now! The rear portion of the TA was fabbed and installed this weekend. The welding could have been prettier, but it is strong! I smoothed out the areas that I could reach with the grinder. The 4 tabs (connection point for the RA) got added yesterday. I found some 3/32" welding rods for my stick welder. These rods are awesome! I wish I would have tried them before! These penetrate very deeply, and provide a very nice looking weld. The slag comes all the way to the top in an even coat and flakes of very easily in nearly one scab. I like this even more than the MIG welding! Besides making the 5 holes on each side of the TA, I have to fab and weld the 2 connection points for the tranny plate, and make a hole in the skin sides to reach the nuts for this attachment. So, the TA is so close to being done. Pics will come upon completion!
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Post by vmrod on Apr 14, 2009 22:43:28 GMT -3
What is left on the TA you say? I'm sure you are pretty tired of hearing me say 'TA' this or 'TA' that.
To complete the TA, I need to cut a hole out in the back panel of the TA (for battery ventilation, as I have no fuel tank). Then, it needs another coat of paint, since I scuffed this up a little making the holes in the side today.
The 2 top skins are not installed, but they have been fabbed and can be tack welded on easily. They have been left off to make it easier when fabbing the battery rack(s) that will go inside the TA. I prefer NOT to have the batts sitting on the lower skin, but on a rack directly above the bottom skin. This will provide a little bit of air space under the battery, but also allow the easy removal of the lower skin for maintenance. (Imagine trying to remove the lower skin with 100lbs+ of batts in the TA!)
Weather permitting, I'll take some pics this weekend. (or sooner) I may attach the TA to the FA, depends on my time. Anyway, stay tuned...
********************************
Ideas, ideas. For those that have been paying attention, I was going to make a 2-speed system. This would have relied on both ends of my motor shaft to function. Netgain engineers advised me NOT to do this with the Warp 9, since it has a smaller CE shaft. The TransWarp 9 would do the trick. ($5 or 6 hundred more money!) It has a larger CE shaft.
Then, a snow mobile CVT came into my mind. Some of these are rated at 150+HP. After a lengthy discussion with the manufacturer (Comet), I came to the conclusion that this system could handle the power of the Warp 9. Problem is that the drive clutch pulley has only a slight larger diameter than the Warp 9 shaft. (I would only need the DE shaft for a CVT.) Perhaps there was a way to use the Warp 9 after all. A motor expert was needed...
Dutchman Axles was called. These guys make custom axles, yokes, driveshaft components, and also supply Netgain motors. After a lengthy and informative discussion, I was told that if I purchased a TransWarp 9 from them, they could make it work with the CVT pulley. (Either customize the motor shaft or machine splines into the pulley to fit the motor shaft.) I will likely choose the latter. That way, if times are tough, I can sell my 'normal' TransWarp 9 motor with stock shaft. Also, if I go crazy and want to put (2) 9" motors in series, then I have the first and most expensive motor for this setup, which can hookup directly to a Chevy 400 driveshaft.
(A Warp 9 could not be used, due to the shaft size simply not fitting the 30mm, tapered hole of the CVT drive pulley. If I can fab that part, I may just go Warp 9.)
To accomodate the snow mobile CVT, I will have to modify the RA a little. Basically the Jackshaft gets moved backwards 1". Air Spring and shock mounts get tweaked to accomodate the movement too. Easy change. Unfortunately, I started cutting out my RA side panels yesterday. Looks like I MIGHT be able to reuse them. Just re-mark holes in the new location. (Holes were not drilled yet, and also I only cut the part where the motor edge is, and not the jackshaft side, which has some extra metal on the edge for now.)
For those that have access to 3D CAD and think they would make changes, then build your car in 3D first. I have done this, and it has been a tremendous help in visualizing potential changes. Once I feel good about my new design, I simply print the 3D parts out on the printer or plotter (full-sized). This paper pattern gets spray-glued to the metal, then cutout. Guarenteed PERFECT fitment.
So far, I have NOT used Marzees, but have fabbed everything myself. Doesn't mean I saved money or time, just that I did it myself. I'm sure that I'll get some parts either milled or waterjet cut for me real soon, though.
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Post by vmrod on Apr 15, 2009 21:39:05 GMT -3
My TA is 1" wider and 3/4" taller than the original. The tabs that the RA gets bolted to remain in the same 3D space. (That is why the top of my TA appears flat all the way to the rear.) Also the circle cut-out for the motor is larger to accomodate the larger 9.25" diameter motor. Allright, on to the pics... TA minus upper skins. Another view. Notice the extra support at the front/top of the TA. This will provide for a solid beam to weld the skin onto. Also the holes for the RA mounting will be made, once the RA is completed and ready to install. Instead of the tranny support brace being a simple rectangle, I made the piece more of a weird shape. Notice that the newly designed piece bridges 4 of the main structural supports together. The support holes will be made either this weekend or when I get the parts needed to mate this portion to the FA. Easy to overlook, a .120" thick metal strap wraps around each bushing carrier and extends onto the frame about 2". Very solid. The lower skin extends forward 12" or so for added frame strength. Since a gas tank will not be installed, I made several smaller holes in the rear plate (no fan will be installed there.) The 2 smaller holes at the top area of the plate may serve for passing my high voltage cables to the motor.
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Post by vmrod on Apr 18, 2009 23:01:04 GMT -3
I mated up the TA to the FA on Friday, then was able to install that all-thread rod that connects the tranny-plate-tube to the TA. The plans called out for a long metal tube for the all-thread rod to pass through. Rather than order this, I took one of the metal sleeves that came with the bushings, and cut it in half. After measuring and determining their correct location on the rod, I put a bead of weld around the rod (without actually welding the sleeve to the rod). Repeat for other side. (Note that the bead goes towards the INSIDE of the sleeve, not the outside area. It must be able to slide on/off the rod.) The purpose is so you can insert the rod into the rubber bushings, then insert the metal sleeve on each end and tap into place. The weld bead prevents you from tapping the sleeve too far. The long tube would likely make thigs easier, but I wanted to do it now, and on the cheap. After bolting this together, this REALLY made the TA feel like one with the FA. The 2" tube caps finally got done today. I used the scrap metal from the TA skin circles that I cut out the other day. I let them overlap onto the nearby metal beam a little bit. I figured this would help make it a little extra sturdy. (as if it really needs it!) Let's see....I disassembled the UCAs from the FA and removed the steering rack. Then I welded the last part of the spring perches into place. (didn't weld them before cuz all that stuff was installed!) Some minor weld-grinding, a little spray paint, then put it all back together. A couple bolts gave me problems on the steering rack. I think I figured out that if a bolt does not wanna go through the hole and you tap it with a hammer, there is a 30% chance that you'll damage the threads. Why do I still tap them in? I guess cuz I feel 'lucky'. Anyway, sometimes screwing them in will get them through the hole too, just not as fast. So, next time I'm at the bolt store, I need a replacement. (Steering rack is re-installed though.) **************************************** Next up will be setting/verifying the camber, then welding the steering rack tie rod bracket to the steering knuckle. I'll take some pics of this for future reference. **************************************** I'm still toying with the idea of a CVT. It sure would be nice to pull this off. The motor would be in back, and there would be LOTS of room for batts. Although front wheel drive sounds good too. Well, I'll proceed with my build, but consider that I may swap to the VW tranny again. Who knows? Maybe I'll just re-install it in the chassis for fun! Keeps people guessing!
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Post by vmrod on Apr 20, 2009 9:39:02 GMT -3
Here are some pics of my 3D work... This is an overview of what I would like to go with. To do this, I would place the motor in the rear, and use either a snow mobile CVT or single gear setup. Sounds like dissatisfactory results from either of the 2. But, it sure would be clean to do this setup! Either the tranny area or the rear TA could be used for A/C equipment. This is a closeup shot of the RA. A couple things I added are in orange (Shock/spring area). Also, a spacer and second plate was added to the passenger side of the RA to accomodate the larger motor. The original plate is mostly there, but a large section was removed to allow the motor to pass through to the outer/second plate. If the motor goes back up front, I'll just place the 2 plates ontop each other without the spacer beams. That way, I'm always flexible to re-add the motor later. This is what I'll likely have to revert back to. Pretty much all battery boxes will have to be customized to allow for better space usage. They can fit where they are, but this doesn't leave much usable space for something bulky like an A/C system. Custom battery boxes will cram the batts closer together and place them just where I want them to be! If I do go with the above, then as batteries get more powerful, I could install a second 9" motor in the back with a single gear or CVT. This vehicle would be REALLY quick! However, wishful thinking, as alot of batteries would be needed. (I'm pretty confident the controller could handle it though.)
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Post by vmrod on Apr 22, 2009 8:50:40 GMT -3
Today is the long awaited day. (besides taken the car out on its maiden voyage) The Zilla controller should be delivered today. Yesterday, I modelled it, to see where I can stick it. Most likely in the rear of the vehicle. Since it is water-cooled, I'll have to see, if I will need to install a little radiator somewhere for it. Might be able to use one of the side scoops for this. Although, it may make more sense to locate the controller close to the motor. I'll model the hairball next. Not sure where that will go. Perhaps in the TA near the tranny, or in the dash. Not sure yet, and there may be a 6' connecting cord that forces me to keep it close to the controller. Small thoughts there. ********************************************* Some more 'paper-dolls' got cut out, glued, and processed. I've got probably 4 or 5 more pieces to cut out for the trailing arm (swing arm), but the toughest ones are done. The 2 internal trusses are next and then a couple misc. parts. If the bevels can be made tomorrow on the edges that require welding, then that means Friday is a construction day for the trailing arm! I will still need to pickup some 'scrap tubing' to use as spacers within the arm, but Home Depot has that sort of thing in stock. I'll take some progress pics during the construction process, so you can see that the XR3 Parts Fairy doesn't just drop these things off at my house.
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Post by vmrod on Apr 23, 2009 21:44:38 GMT -3
After a 7 month wait, it came as scheduled, on the 22nd. Behold.... ;D These 2 little boxes represent 2/3's of my old corvette! But it will be put to a much better use now! ********************************************** To my dismay, I have unexpectedly run out of .120" thick metal. This means that I cannot construct the swing arm this weekend. Fear not. The air spring/shock support (on the swingarm) will get done. The steering brackets should also be welded to the knuckle plates. If there is still time, the front wheel camber will be verified/adjusted and branded "complete". Oh yes, I may be able to start on the ring-gear flipping, but I wish I had some guidance for that. (Never stopped me before though! )
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Post by vmrod on May 4, 2009 21:44:17 GMT -3
Received a metal shipment in today, and cutout a few swing-arm pieces. Perhaps this week, I can get more done. Here's a couple progress pics of the chassis... ...and another one...
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Post by vmrod on May 7, 2009 7:45:45 GMT -3
I cut out some RA parts and discovered after that Online Metals has sent me the wrond thickness metal. I was really hoping to get some welding done this weekend, but this blows that idea up. I'll call them today to see, if they can send me the correct stuff. Hopefully for free, since I already cut-up the stuff they sent me. (I cold always send the pieces back since even the scrap is in my garbage can.) I'll do what I can, when I can. Might even take a break for a couple days.... (later update) Here's a pic of some paper dolls for the swingarm...
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Post by vmrod on May 15, 2009 21:39:00 GMT -3
Geez, I finally got around to working on the e-car again (still nameless). I was able to fab and cutout the inner pieces of the swingarm. Instead of using the 3 pieces from the plans, I used my CAD software and made 2 pieces. An angled slit was cut into each one, so they slide into each other. Nice, cuz they stay put fairly well. If anyone wants a DXF file of my 2 pieces, drop me an email, and I'll shoot them to you. Only 4 hours (or a little less) was spent on it today, but I have nice progress. Consider that the 2 larger plates, and the 2 spacer cylinders were already cutout. Since the picture was taken, I went ahead and welded a small internal piece (RA-SM-11). But only 1. It was placed on the end in the foreground. I had (2) 1/2" bolts to help me assemble it, however 1 was too short, and the other had messed up threads. So, I just inserted them into the holes, then put large clamps onto the arm. Worked great. I moved the longer bolt to the other hole when I went to weld that cylinder, to ensure it would stay lined up. Again, no probs. It would be VERY nice to have 3 wheels on the ground by next month, but that is doubtful. Those bushing and hub carriers will take some time, research, and likely bucks to get. **************************** In case you're curious, I handmade the pauldrons (shoulder armour) in the background. I made that one a while ago, but was completing the other one. (Ummm, I was not working on armour instead of the e-car )
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Post by vmrod on May 15, 2009 21:57:50 GMT -3
Just cuz I have not been churning out chassis work, do not think that I am not working on the car. Check this out... These cells and cell-holders have been drawn to scale. I know these custom packs can hold the amount of batts that I want. As I mentioned elsewhere on this forum, I'll install the TA pack for testing, then add the 2 larger ones in the front. If all goes well, I'll sell my SKY, then add the last 2 packs. (total (5) 168V packs totalling 50aH). Here is some BMS equipment. I created these to scale and placed them into the model too. (that last pick is not super recent) These can pretty honestly go anywhere. I might place some in the tunnel, we'll see later. Today, I added the airtank in the model. I'll start doing real work to it, once the RA package is completed.
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Post by vmrod on May 19, 2009 22:13:47 GMT -3
Rather than bend the metal first, then mark where the holes have to be drilled, then drill, then replace metal, I used a proven armour-making technique. Cardboard was used as the piece. It was able to bend easily into position despite the curves. I taped it in place, then traced the internal truss locations onto it. This was repeated with another cardboard piece for the other side too. These cardboard templates served as the perfect template for me. The tape was reused to tape the cardboard to the metal. Then, a center punch was used to mark the holes (hit hard enough to dent the metal beneath) Then drill out the holes as required. See pic... The shorter piece was put in place, then I started to weld up the little holes. (in effect, welding the internal truss to the outside skin) Clamps were used to hold it in place as I went. For the bend, the entire piece was placed on my worktable and smacked with a hammer to bend the metal into position. A clamp held it firmly together once the metal was bent close enough. Here are my finished rosette welds. They don't appear to be very robust, but they do go through and touch the truss, so I guess that is it. I'll go back and spot weld the inside of this new addition, then trim the excess all the way around. The edges will get welded once the other side is in place. Oh yea, I think I will install the idler pulley bracket. It looks like it may benefit from internal welding, so I should do it before the swing arm gets sealed up.
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Post by vmrod on May 21, 2009 18:52:54 GMT -3
Done enough. I didn't put that tension pulley bracket on. It only gets welded on the outside, so it can be done later. There is also 1 little sliver of metal that needs to be added (at the top of pic), but that is also a no brainer. (just ran out of time today) I figured that you would rather me take some pics, than complete the piece and brag about it. Anyway... and... I know it looks nasty inside, but if you won't tell anyone, than neither will I. The part is VERY solid and still needs paint. The shock bracket is pretty much done, but it might be best to weld this onto the swingarm after it is mounted in place. That way, I can 'fine tune' the position of the bracket if needed. I may take a short break, then get to work on the RA package.
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