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Post by vmrod on Dec 28, 2008 23:31:40 GMT -3
I was determined to get the chassis together this weekend. For those that have not kept track, my first attempt with the Front Assembly was 9/16" off. So I decided to rebuild the Front Assembly from scratch. To avoid the mistakes from the 'first attempt', I used nylon, tie-down straps to make an 'X' between the tubes of the Front Assembly. This worked out very well. I was able to ratchet one or the other strap, until they were both equal measurements. For the end without the metal tubes, I placed a block of wood between the vertical suports, and wedged it until the tubes were spaced at 26" wide (top tubes) and 24" wide (bottom tubes). A second 'X' was placed on this end, and adjusted properly. Everything was perfect! Well maybe too perfect... I tacked here and there. Good tacks. Eventually got a nice spread on all the joints. Nice. Very nice! I took off all the straps and everything stayed put. Great job Vic! I even attached the large, transmission bracket at the bottom. Well, as I was checking it out from every angle and admiring my perfection, I noticed something... The large, 3"x2" rectangular tube that connects the 2 top tubes, I had installed upside down! F$#@k!!! I started to grind the welds off, but I had tacked inside the rect. tube too. So I can't reach in there. (not yet at least). I've reviewed the plans, and looks like the only thing affected is the spring perches are now 1/2" lower than 'normal'. I don't know if that 1/2" is room for travel for the air springs or not. I'll ask a few questions to other builders, but will likely try to grind the welds and flop the piece right-side up. My choices are: 1. Install 1/2" spacers to lift the spring perches to normal height. 2. Do nothing and install perches right where they are. Hope for best. 3. Grind off welds, flip piece over. 4. Cut piece off however, grind tubes smooth, buy and refab rect. tube again. (3rd time is a charm, right?) I think I'll go for steps 3 & 4. Time consuming, but think of the time I will save, by not explaining to other builders why I did this or that. Hopefully I can fix this before year's end!
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Post by vmrod on Dec 29, 2008 23:35:15 GMT -3
I'm working successfully on item #3 (prior post). After using a small, high-speed rotary tool with abrasive, metal-cutting disks, I was able to get through most of the welds easily. I smacked it a few times with a heavy hammer, and the piece seemed to move a little! I need to find a small rotary cutter, about the size of a pencil eraser or so. (Instead of Quarter-sized disc.) The last couple tack-welds are in hard to reach places. At least there's hope that I can get this piece off without any damage, and get back on track soon.
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Post by vmrod on Dec 30, 2008 22:48:00 GMT -3
After fanciful grinding and some heavy beating, I got the part off! (See prior posts for the long story on that! ) It has a small dent from a hammer blow, which is not noticeable, but adds personality to the chassis. Had I thought more about it, I would have rotated it, so that marred portion would be in the back. At any rate, with a coat of paint, it will pass. As promised, here is a pic... (Click on pic for a larger view.) Call me lazy, but I didn't feel like going in my shed's loft, and digging out Chassis#1, for a pic. I will dig it out when I get more time, and show a side by side comparison.
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Post by vmrod on Jan 2, 2009 21:38:45 GMT -3
Nothing super-wrong today. Normal oops I did this, and redo.... Anyway a status pic... I paid attention to the angle of the upper control arm brackets. I used a 36"long x 1/2"dia. rod to ensure that all of the brackets fell on the same linear path. Use the model to determine angle. (It should be noted that the rod diameter should have likely been a hair smaller. I may have to weld a thick washer with the proper diameter on the outside of the brackets, if this is a future prob.) Note to public who have not been reading the whole thread...I still need to go back and put a good weld on all the joints.
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Post by vmrod on Jan 3, 2009 19:54:53 GMT -3
Tadaa! ;D The jig was made and used as directed in the manual. In the pic, the part is just sitting in the jig, but it was secured down like in the manual. The toughest part was getting the 2 tubes machined properly to accommodate the bushings. The next tough part is cutting out the round hole in the plate to accommodate the ball-joint. (Notice it is not cut-out yet.) Maybe I can get motivated tomorrow and complete the other control arm. Once together, I'll see about drilling those holes! Lastly, here is a pic of the arm clamped down to the jig.
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Post by vmrod on Jan 4, 2009 20:30:54 GMT -3
I got the other one done today! It should be noted that you really need to clamp both control arms together tightly, when welding the 2nd arm. Otherwise, the welding will cause the plate to pull a little. This happened the first time, so I ground it off and did it again. On the second try, it shifted a tiny bit. (1/32" perhaps less). It was only noticeable on the hole for the air spring, so I redrilled it, so both holes lay exactly the same way now. (Both holes have a very slight wobble look to them, but should be no problem at all.) Making that large hole for the ball joint was a big chore. I used a dremmel tool, jig-saw, side-grinder, then grinding wheel. In the end, I think I will just use a hole saw for the next one. I've got a little more minor chassis stuff to do, and a little steering/suspension stuff to do.
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Post by vmrod on Jan 9, 2009 0:12:58 GMT -3
Real quickie today, not much done.
On the way home, I stopped at Home Depot for a 1-3/4" hole saw. (To cut the last hole in the control arm.) Go figure they were sold out. In fact, it doesn't look like they have restocked that area in weeks! Good for me, I can get it close to work at a local hardware store. Their holesaws last longer anyway.
Once I got home, the welding machine got cranked up and the 2 front shock mounts installed. (They had been cut-out awhile back.)
The holes still need to be drilled in each one, but I want to obtain the bolt first to ensure I make the correct sized hole.
I also managed to use the spray glue, and glue down 2 more patterns for a Rear Assembly piece. (RA-SM-8A I think.) I'm out of 0.188 metal, so before I order more, I need to see what else I need in that thickness.
In fact, I'm pretty much out of metal! I've got the front knuckle bracket assembly to work on. (That's the assembly that has that swedged hole in the thick piece of steel.) There's also the thick piece of metal that the tie-rod attaches to. (Gotta drill into that thick piece too!) Once I drill out those holes, I really don't want to weld those parts up just yet (maybe a tiny tack), cuz they will likely need fine tuning. (Can' tell until the wheels are on, and I haven't gotten them yet.)
So, I suppose the thing I will need to do, is to make a materials list for the Tunnel Assembly, then order all of that metal. Last time I made the tunnel assembly, I did the cutting and tacking on a weekend. (The first tunnel assembly was made from tubing that was too thin. I followed an error on the plans!) Fortunately, it gave me practice, and also that thin tubing can be used for the canopy area.
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Side note. I researched batteries today. Those nano-phosphate (or is it hypophosphate) batts are something! I'm watching A123 batteries closely. I would snatch them up right now, but it's pointless, when they would only sit around for the car to be completed. Maybe when I am done, the prices are lower and the technology better.
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Post by vmrod on Jan 14, 2009 15:01:28 GMT -3
Returned a bolt and nut for the proper size today. (I don't even need them right now, but I've got it now.) The upper ball joints were ordered either yesterday, or day before (Monday). A friend at work is supposed to lend me a small MIG welder that uses gas, so maybe I can do all of my own welding. This is a small holdup at the moment. Next week, I'll order my metal for the tunnel! If time permits, I'll calculate what I need today or tomorrow. See, I told you not much is going on today!
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Post by vmrod on Jan 16, 2009 12:22:08 GMT -3
...just what the subject says. Spent about $90 (including shipping) I didn't get the plate-steel for the outside yet. I'll wait until the tunnel tubing is put together before I make the next purchase. (Give me a chance to get another allowance! ) If I remember correctly, there was an issue with the tubing that houses the bushings. (tunnel to front assembly) The issue was likely that the round tubing interior needed to be machined to a specific diamter. I was able to purchase tubing with the proper innner diameter, but the wall thickness was a little less. I may end up using the latter tubing for the bushing, but then wrapping the entire tube with a piece of steel. (which you need to do anyway, per instructions)
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Post by vmrod on Jan 17, 2009 21:35:15 GMT -3
Was not much done here either. Had to slightly grind the edge of the upper control arm plate, to make a slight bevel. (to match the ball joint).
One of the mounting holes of the ball joints was off a little. I bolted the ball joint in place with the the side bolts, then redrilled the 3rd hole. Bolt went in next no probs.
One of the grease fittings is close to the tubing, so I'll have to get a shorter nipple the next time I run to the auto-parts store.
If Marty will hurry up and bring that MIG welder to me, I might be able to actually install my hubs and stuff!
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Post by vmrod on Jan 19, 2009 23:48:45 GMT -3
Yea, that's it for today. (yawn) Where is that welding machine Marty?
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Post by vmrod on Jan 25, 2009 0:54:22 GMT -3
I finally got the transmission mounts together, so I decided why not install the transmission.
I drilled and tapped the 2 blocks of steel (front mounts). No probs there. Rather than install the blocks at a 30 degree angle, I installed mine at 45 degrees. (just cuz I felt like it.) The tapped holes are in the exact place they need to be in relation to the chassis. What's nice is that there is a fair amount of 'play' between the chassis bracket (steel block) and the transmission mount hole. This leaves some 'fine tuning' for later. There is supposed to be a second set of holes all of the way through the main structural member, but I will do those later. That way, I can shift the transmission left or right, to ensure the drive shafts are exactly the same length.
The rear bracket I made just like instructed, but the bracket to chassis holes did not line up right. I simply attached the rear transmission mount to the tranny, then attached the bracket to the mount. I then redrilled the holes as required and installed a temporary bolt in each of the 2 holes. As a hint for others, I would skip drilling the holes in the transmission mounting bracket. These can easily be drilled once you get everything together. (and they will line up perfectly!)
I really should have taken a pic or 2. Maybe if I get time, I'll do that tomorrow. I'll also post the 'tips' I learned in the 'tips and hints' section of the forum.
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Post by vmrod on Jan 27, 2009 23:52:09 GMT -3
I got the Mig welder from my friend, but it needs gas, wire, and probably some tips. I visited a nearby welding supplier, and they would not refill my bottle. I was offered a large bottle to purchase for $145. (plus the cost of the gas) I contacted my welder friend and he has available time, so I brought the upper control arms to him. (also the last lower control arm and last spring perch). Hopefully this gets done for the weekend! Once I install the 2 little steel bars (where the sway bar mounts), then tack weld the 4 front caps, I can hand the chassis to him for professional welding!!! Now if I can get those tapered holes drilled for the upper ball joint. I'm almost thinking of buying Granada spindles and cutting off the part where the ball joint inserts, and using that on my car.
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Post by vmrod on Feb 6, 2009 22:08:18 GMT -3
Drilled that special hole in FA-SM-23. Takes patience, a drill press, and that special bit. If I have time tomorrow, I'll do the other one.
I'm getting very close to putting together the knuckle plates. Won't be long before I look over the rims/tires again.
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Post by vmrod on Feb 8, 2009 22:11:06 GMT -3
Allright. Both are completed and ready for use. Perhaps this week, I can get the needed bolts to use for the knuckle plates.
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