|
Post by vmrod on Mar 20, 2012 11:48:05 GMT -3
Did some troubleshooting and ultimately a wire swap. Nope.
The next plan of action is to clear the Zilla of all old errors, check the programmed parameters, then try again.
Worst case, I hard-wire the necessary power signals to the Hairball, and disconnect the unneeded items. After all, it worked fine once before with 'bare bones' installation.
|
|
|
Post by carlnelson on Mar 22, 2012 21:13:01 GMT -3
Congrats on the step forward! I like the fact that you are trying to re-use existing ingnition switches and such to keep the car familar as convension dictates! Better to use the ingnition instead of say a toggle switch on the dash!!! My house purchase I wrote about has finally gone thru, now I'm in the middle of a remodel, should be ready to build my shop sometime this summer!! It should be a great winter filled with projects!! Carl
|
|
|
Post by vmrod on Mar 23, 2012 15:37:30 GMT -3
Exciting news!!!!! The problem has been resolved with no wiring changes! Here's the scoop; The Zilla's Hairball requires 12v+ to run. Most people have this 'hot' the whole time. This keeps the internal circuits and programs running. You could have this wired to an 'accessory' key position, so it is only hot when the key is in and ready to run. (one small issue is that once it gets power, you need to wait a few seconds for the Hairball to boot up) For my Opel, I have a selector switch, so I can choose to have the Hairball on all the time or only when the key is 'on'. I had the switch in the second position. When I tried to start the vehicle, the Hairball was not fully booted up, so did not hold the main contactor in. I flipped the selector switch to the 'always hot', and tried it out. Bingo! Worked perfectly. Ok. So I picked up everything, and got the camera ready! Cautiously, I made my first electric drive! I went once around the block. It was slow and the single set of batteries gave 'low-cell voltage' warnings a couple times. The clutch may need some adjustments as it was tough to shift gears. Also, the speedometer was not working. (I reconnected the cable, maybe I goofed somehow). The second set of batteries were installed, and then they got a charge. They could not be fully charged, because a cell gave a 'high-voltage' alarm. (This cell balancing will be good, once a true BMS gets installed later.). The Zilla's program was tweaked, then off for ride #2. Ride #2 was a little better than the first, but not that much. I would have spun the tires in my trike, but this was a slow crawl that finally accelerated. Pretty much left it in what I think is first gear for most of the ride. The next step is to connect the shifter, so I get reverse, then look at the speedo cable. I'll post the movie later. It's not as exciting as the trike's first drive, but still pretty cool. Here's some pics; (if it works) Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by vmrod on Mar 23, 2012 23:13:15 GMT -3
|
|
|
Post by carlnelson on Mar 27, 2012 19:18:51 GMT -3
youtube says: This video is private. I'm enjoying the build, keep on keeping on!!! lol
|
|
|
Post by vmrod on Mar 28, 2012 8:52:00 GMT -3
Thanks for the heads-up on the video. Try it now.
|
|
|
Post by carlnelson on Mar 28, 2012 13:02:27 GMT -3
Good Job! Nice to see it running!! So what are your max plans battery-wise? What's your estimated range? I know that depends on driving style but if you keep it moderate what's the range?
Looking Great!!
|
|
|
Post by vmrod on Mar 28, 2012 14:10:20 GMT -3
Not 100% on the max. battery. It will either be 168v-75ah (actual pack voltage is around 188v), or the more typical 144v-90ah. I'm trying for a 40 mile range, with a 25+ mile range minimum (if I drive crazy). My work is 23 miles round trip.
|
|
|
Post by vmrod on Apr 2, 2012 16:20:01 GMT -3
I've pulled the Hairball out the car, and will be sending it to the Zilla doctor for a check-up.
In the meantime, I can start balancing the battery cells, and tie up a few loose ends.
|
|
|
Post by vmrod on Apr 6, 2012 13:23:56 GMT -3
Got the shifter mechanisms together again. Opel GT has reverse gear again! Last major mechanical issue is the non-functional speedometer. It used to work, so it must be something I did. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out. It's just a cable.
|
|
|
Post by vmrod on Apr 9, 2012 12:26:05 GMT -3
Battery cells balanced (as best as possible for me). Connected DC-DC converter power input, as well as the output from the traction pack charger. Getting stuff done. Small stuff, but it's adding up.
|
|
|
Post by carlnelson on Apr 24, 2012 20:50:01 GMT -3
Looks like you are making great progress!!! Man, can't wait to hear it's running!!!
|
|
|
Post by vmrod on Apr 25, 2012 9:05:47 GMT -3
Well, the hairball came back, but the controller is still not functioning properly.
I've removed the power unit from the vehicle and will send that off (along with hairball and connecting cable) to get checked out.
In the meantime, I made an assembly for the hall effect sensor (for EV display) and additional high voltage contactor. I need to pickup a few bolts this weekend, then install it. The EV wiring should be totally complete after that. (minus any bells and whistles like additional warning lights and such).
I don't think it will be quite where I wanted it to be (at this time), but it pretty close.
|
|
|
Post by vmrod on Apr 29, 2012 20:48:55 GMT -3
The day has finally come! First, I completed the above box made from a nylon cutting board. It houses the hall effect current sensor for the EV display (lets me know how much 'juice' I'm using), and also another high current/voltage contactor. Once installed (in temporary location), I can flip a nearby switch and shutdown the high voltage to the front of the vehicle. Handy when re-installing the controller. Lastly, this shows the EV-display in action. It's currently showing the pack voltage (189v), but can display other things like a 'fuel gauge', watts, amps, and other things like that. Very handy. The blue wire under the dash is for a 'fuel low' light that I'll install in the future. (need to label, coil and tape). There's also a black wire hanging around that will get tied to the original fuel gauge, again later date for that. So the Opel wiring is complete. Of course, the controller is at the doctor, so I have to re-terminate those wires, but all the other wires have been run and are terminated. At some point, I need to go through my switches and make sure that all the relays and automatic controls work as intended. I should have time for that soon enough. If everything goes well, I should be able to drive it again around the block before I leave for my 1/2 year-long vacation to Europe. I'll continue when I get back. If you wanna follow my adventures in Germany, I'll document them here; www.reisender.proboards.com
|
|
|
Post by vmrod on May 14, 2012 22:40:51 GMT -3
Talked to Manzita Micro today. Seems like my Hairball has contracted some problem that they cannot fix. So, I purchased a new one. It will get tested together with my power unit, then shipped back to me. If all goes as planned, I should be able to go for one more EV ride before the long vacation.
|
|