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Post by hondacrzy on Sept 22, 2009 0:20:18 GMT -3
And it begins.............After finishing my Civic Electric conversion earlier this year, I need a new project. This will be challenging to say the least. I will need everyones help to keep me on track and finish this thing. VMROD has been my inspiration, along with the builders from the other site. I have shipment conformation on my plans and have ordered a large amount of metal to get started. I am terrible on documenting things and my typing skills suck, But I will try to keep up. Here is a link to my Civic project. www.diyelectriccar.com/garage/cars/32Cheers Chris |
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Post by vmrod on Sept 23, 2009 8:37:50 GMT -3
Great to see another build here! Also, it is very good to have some of your electric-car experience handy.
What kind of acceleration do you get in your honda? How many miles between charges? ;D
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Post by hondacrzy on Sept 23, 2009 21:54:51 GMT -3
The acceleration is about the same as a automatic Civic. I am using a Kelly controller and they are a little under powered. If I used a curtis or upgraded to the 800amp Kelly, I think it would be better. I have gone as far as 32 miles to 50% DOD. I assume about 40 miles to 80%DOD. I usually only go about 20 miles or so most of the time before I charge. I have a very short commute.  I SURE WISH MY PLANS WERE HERE  . How did you print out your paper patterns? Most of the parts I will have water jet but it would be nice to print some of them if needed. |
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Post by vmrod on Sept 24, 2009 8:45:20 GMT -3
I have access to a Cad program program at work (Autocad). I print the DXF files out at 1:1 scaling to the printer. Fortunately, we have large format printers 11x17, and larger format plotters. So, I can print out any part. If you do not have the ability to print at 11x17, consider using Kinkos or some other place like that. Making brackets and most of the parts is very easy to do. Just spray glue the paper onto the metal, let dry, then use an angle grinder and cutting disk to cut it out. Cut along the lines, just like in grade school. Helpful tips: If a part has large holes in it (or many small ones), consider waterjet cutting it. Thick parts (3/8") are best waterjet cut. The best eye-protection is a large face-shield. |
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Post by havelock on Sept 24, 2009 16:59:16 GMT -3
Welcome aboard!!! Amen to Vmrod's comments I need to learn a lot from you guys as I bounce off my concepts. As explained to Vmrod I want to use a waffered carbon composite idea I've had to substitute as much of the metalwork as possible. My first step is to build up a few pieces to see whether the waffered concept will have sufficient strength and rigidity. I have attached some pictures of the new BMW concept hybrid. I want to start with the diesel and incorporate the ideas seen here for a front radiator placed at a 45 degree angle and a wind scoop to cool, flowing back out over the hood. In order to do this I am thinking to widen the plans by 9 inches to give some extra room for turbo charging and stretch the length by 12 inches. My drawings are to make this a convertible and make the shape of the body to conform with and to use the Satern "Sky's" windscreen, rag top and shape immediately behind the seats. I am an accountant and I guess it shows in my wanting to tie down all the concepts before embarking on the construction as a whole. Thank you Vmrod for making this venue possible and all your insight and encouragement. I can't wait to start posting progress rather than ideas. Thanks Attachments:
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Post by vmrod on Sept 25, 2009 8:30:54 GMT -3
I have a Saturn Sky, so I can take pics of it, when you get to the body-making point.
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Post by havelock on Sept 25, 2009 18:42:03 GMT -3
Vnrod thanks for the reply
When you have time could you please give me the measurements of the Sky's windscreen, particularly the width as this will influence my modeling. With the heavy rains we get here in Dallas I want to be able to use a glass windscreen and regular wiper blades.
The other measurement would be the width of the rag top and gear as I will need to allow enough width and space to stow it away behind the seats.
This is the 3rd attempt at replying so I am going to add the attachments separately after I have sent this.
Thanks again
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Post by hondacrzy on Sept 28, 2009 1:13:37 GMT -3
I received my plans on Thursday. although I was not to impressed with the DVD. I wish it had more of the foam construction, that is were I will need the help. I bought some plate and had the parts for the front assembly cut out using CNC plasm cutter. That was my first mistake. Although the plasma cutter does the job. by the time you figured the time I spent getting the metal, diving over and having it cut. Paying for the cutting and the time I still had to spend cleaning up the parts, I would have spent only about $30 more ordering it though Marzee. I do have some metal left to use but I don't think it was worth it. I will attach a picture of the parts. I also ordered some air springs from Airbagit. They have them on "sale" right now buy 2 and get 2 free. I only need 3 but they are only $154 for all four plus shipping. They are a different brand but appear to have the same specs. I will post more good or bad when I get them. They should be here Tues. Attachments:
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Post by vmrod on Sept 28, 2009 8:31:00 GMT -3
Hey, make sure that your front shock bracket (upper) is at least 1/4" thick. the plans call for 1/8" (or so) and it should have been corrected to something thicker. Also, don't worry about the lack of foam instructions. By the time you are 2/3rd's complete with your chassis, you'll be able to build anything!  (edit) I used 'Slam Specialties' RE-6 air bags with no probs. The bags don't have studs in them (like the firestone brand), so you'll need a bolt instead. no biggie. |
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Post by hondacrzy on Sept 28, 2009 23:58:40 GMT -3
So much for those 2 pieces I already had cut  , Thanks for the heads up. I guess those are a little thin. I forgot to say that I picked up the knuckles, bearings and calipers already, just need to clean them up. |
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Post by hondacrzy on Oct 5, 2009 0:01:52 GMT -3
A little work done this weekend. Finished FA-SM-1, FA-SM-3. Bent FA-SM-7, 8, 9. Cut and drilled one of the two holes in FA-SM-21. The other hole there is no measurements for so I asked on the XR3 site for info. I also need to find out if the front sway bar brackets are made or bought. Riley appears to need some more updates on his site. The last update was over a year ago. Attachments:
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Post by vmrod on Oct 5, 2009 8:41:04 GMT -3
For some of the holes, I decided to wait until the assembly was completed, then drill them at that time.
I had predrilled the rear transmission mounting bracket holes, and after bending and shaping the pieces, they did not line up well. I ended up redrilling them.
I'm not saying don't drill any holes, just saying that it may be better to drill some of them afterwards.
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Post by hondacrzy on Oct 19, 2009 1:03:08 GMT -3
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Post by hondacrzy on Nov 14, 2009 23:00:26 GMT -3
It's been awhile, But I have had some progress. I received some parts I had Marzee cut. I also had the bearing boss and tubes for the swing arm machined so I can get them welded. Those are being done now so I can continue work while the machining and aluminum welding is being done. I installed the spring perches on the FA and installed the FA-SM-6 cross braces. I finished welding both of the upper control arms and finished one of the lower arms. I would have had both of the lower arms done but I screwed up yet again. I will need to reorder some metal for the one lower arm and start over( I welded the LCA-3 pieces on wrong ). I am looking to find out about the hole size for the outer tie rod ends and get the proper tooling to get the holes machined while I do other work.  Parts From Marzee.  Control arm welding jig.  Spring perches Installed.  One control arm.  Lathe work. I will post a few more pics Sunday If I have time. Chris |
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Post by hondacrzy on Nov 20, 2009 1:17:57 GMT -3
I ordered the 3 degree end mill for the ball joints and tie rod ends. Some time spent shopping I found one for $34 plus shipping. I also received my rear caliper today. I found one reman with brake pads for $46. Bought the rear rotor and machined off the inner lip and over sized the center hole to fit on the hub. I now have all the pieces for the rear axle tube so I can send the aluminum pieces out to get welded. I see a problem with the bearing boss alignment that will cause problems with e-brake cable. I posted on the x3r site to see if someone can enlighten me. ;D
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.
, Thanks for the heads up. I guess those are a little thin. I forgot to say that I picked up the knuckles, bearings and calipers already, just need to clean them up.
